Excursions in
Jordan

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Excursion

The Desert Castles

A series of ancient buildings that now lie beside the main road heading east into the desert from Amman. They could be more suggestively named the Desert Pleasure Palaces: they'd probably get more visitors this way! They were built by the Umayyad dynasty, the second Arab caliphate established in the wake of the death of Mohammed, and served no defensive purpose, as they were actually hunting lodges and bathing houses for the ruling elite. There are three main ones to visit. Kharaneh is a solid, square structure with towers on each corner. The unadorned brickwork, arched windows and doors and symmetry of the structure make it great for photographing. At Qasr Amra, you approach the building from an elevated position, allowing you to appreciate the domed roof of the bath house. Amra has been designated as a World Heritage Site, and as soon as you step inside you understand why as the walls are adorned with remarkable frescoes. Although they have been damaged by shepherds who used the buildings as shelters after they fell into disuse, the content of the frescoes is what is so remarkable: there is a real merging of nascent Islamic style with traditional Greek art; there are animals behaving like humans, an amazingly accurate star map depicting the Zodiac, and perhaps surprisingly, images of wine consumption and naked women. The final Desert Castle that most people visit is Azraq, which you can read about in our entry dedicated entirely to Azraq. You may wish to extend your tour to include Qasr Hallabat. One of the more elaborate 'Desert Castle's', it was originally built as a Roman Fort, eventually evolving into a country palace with mosaic floors, a chapel and monastery, with the monastery later being converted into storerooms by the Umayyads.

Excursion

Extended Petra Tour

Your guided Petra tour takes you from the gates of the site down the 800-metre path to the start of the Siq Canyon, past the first small, intricate examples of Nabataean tomb construction. You then enter the 1.2 kilometre Siq, which is so much more than just the access point to the hidden city. Geologically it is hugely impressive, with the towering sandstone walls rising high above you; in places the canyon is so narrow the walls almost seem to touch. All along the Siq are altars and carvings in the rock, and in places, the original cobbled paving has been excavated as well. Evidence also remains of the intricate drainage systems the Nabataeans used to convey water into the city. As you approach the end of the Siq, the excitement mounts as you wait for that first famous glimpse of The Treasury tomb, a narrow sliver visible, framed by the mouth of the canyon. No matter how many times you have seen it on film and in photographs, it still doesn't disappoint. The Treasury is one of the most impressive tombs in the city, the detailed carving and relief climbing most of the way up the vast rock wall. It's the perfect place for your guide to explain some of the principles of Nabataean architecture before you continue on into the city itself. After passing along the Street of Facades, the facades being several imposing tombs, you come to the amphitheatre. Built in the Roman style by the Nabataeans, it takes advantage of a natural bowl in the rock, into which the seating has been carved. As you continue, you move into a large, open area sandwiched between the two mountain barriers that kept Petra hidden from the world for so long. This flat section is the heart of the Roman city, where you will find their triumphal arch, paved street and temples. Your tour finishes at the foot of the vast Qasr El-Bint temple, itself dwarfed by the mountain it nestles against. After refreshing yourself with a drink at the restaurant found nearby, you can continue to explore at your leisure.

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