Clare's three weeks in India

On this India trip, Clare set out to reconnect with some of the places she already knew, and to explore a few that were completely new to her. From the backstreets and flower markets of Kolkata, to the forts, deserts and lake cities of Rajasthan, and on into the quieter corners of central India, this was a journey shaped as much by the people she met as the places she visited.There were early mornings on riverbanks, long drives through changing landscapes, and evenings spent in the company of conservationists, families and local guides who shared their India in a way no guidebook ever could. It’s exactly this kind of first-hand, on-the-ground experience that helps us design better holidays – and it’s what makes trips like this so valuable.Here’s Clare’s story, in her own words.

My three weeks in India took me from Kolkata in the northeast, across Rajasthan and down into Central India, before finishing in Delhi. Along the way I explored the Pink City of Jaipur, the Blue City of Jodhpur, the Golden City of Jaisalmer, and the Venice of the East – Udaipur, peppered along my route with rural homestays, noble ancestral forts and palaces. I traversed the changing scenery by car; from the far western wilderness of the Thar Desert, to the stark contrast of overflowing monsoonal lakes, to greener than imaginable grasslands and teak forests of Panna National Park, with Pandav falls at bursting point. 

A real mix of culture, wildlife, history and everyday life. I visited four UNESCO World Heritage Sites, a UNESCO Creative City, and a protected tiger reserve. I explored forts, palaces, temples and markets, travelled by car through Rajasthan’s shifting landscapes, and took trains through remote villages. I also spent time with conservationists, noble families, artists, wildlife filmmakers and local communities – as well as eating my way through India, which is always part of the job.

Yes! Nagaur completely stole my heart. Its vast Ahhichatragarh Fort dates back to the 4th century and has been beautifully restored. The water systems are now working again, with 90 fountains flowing through the gardens and courtyards, and it’s now a centre for wall-painting conservation and the annual Sufi Festival.I also loved Sundar Rang in Chandeleo, an arts and crafts centre where local women create traditional Rajasthani crafts from up-cycled materials. It’s social, relaxed and genuinely empowering; it's a really lovely thing to see.

I honestly ate my way across the country, from street food to home-cooked meals. What stood out most was eating with local families and at small, traditional hawker stalls – watching food being cooked fresh in front of you and chatting to the people behind it. Those simple, everyday meals were far more memorable than anything fancy.

I stayed in so many wonderful places throughout my three weeks in India, but, Ramathra Fort, without question. It’s owner-run by the original family and has such a relaxed, welcoming feel.Why is it so special? Firstly, I believe any property passionately run as an owner-led concern by the original ancestral family wins hands down. Ravi and his son care about the experience of their guests intently. Their love of the land and the village of Ramathra was so evident, and they shared their home with us with such a sense of pride and privilege.The relaxed and informal atmosphere was an invitation to stop for a while and truly switch off. The far-reaching and uninterrupted views of the lake were a delight to gaze on as I bubbled away in the jacuzzi on the turret.  By night the sky pops with stars. The village visit was thoughtful and respectful – singing with the schoolchildren, chatting to families and seeing daily life was a real honour. The family also runs nature walks, night safaris, boating and wilderness drives, and they really know the land inside out. Migratory birds arrive in October, so if you're a keen twitcher, that's an extra reason to visit!Just two hours detour from Ranthambore, and less than five hours drive from Agra, Jaipur and Gwalior, Ramathra Fort can be a good stop before returning to Delhi, adding a rural element to your Golden Triangle experience. It's worth the journey, I promise!

Two things (I can't pick just one!). Firstly, spending time with conservationist Shatrunjay Pratap Singh, who is fighting to protect the leopards of Bera and Jawai from mining. And secondly, the sheer madness and joy of the evening arti ceremony at Govind Ji Templein in Jaipur – it’s loud, chaotic and unforgettable, and you just clap along and get swept up in it.

It was really emotional, actually! The first time I visited Jaisalmer, it took three local buses and felt like a frontier town, full of tribal women with jewellery and churns of sand. Thanks to UNESCO protections, the fort and skyline are still beautifully preserved, so sitting in Kila Bhawan, looking out through the carved stone windows, felt like stepping back into that same world. The difference now is how much easier it is to reach, with daily flights into the city – but the magic is still very much there.  

A mix of big sights and everyday life – the Taj Mahal is an absolute must-visit, of course, but also village visits, market days, festivals, street food, and a train journey. Those moments are what really bring an India holiday to life.

The Monkey Train in the Pali region was brilliant. It runs between Marwar and Kamlighat, serving tiny villages along the way. I stood in the open doorway with the wind in my hair as we rattled along the narrow-gauge track, thinking about everyone who has travelled this line since 1930. When we reached Kamlighat, troops of monkeys were waiting by the tracks, hoping the locals would throw them snacks. It was completely surreal and very funny – definitely not a feeding opportunity, that's not recommended!

Sim card/dongle - Using your own phone will rack up a ridiculously high bill. We may have an Indian phone in the car for your use whilst you are away, but the alternative is to take a preloaded SIM at the airport (ask your guide when they meet you). This will allow texts and phone calls to the UK without any unexpected contracted costs.Take paper copies of all important documents – The Indian bureaucracy loves to see a printout! This avoids an issue if the internet goes rogue, and is best to do for the following documents:1. Your Indian Visa 2. Domestic flight tickets. 3. Copy of your biometric passport page.Carry small change - Carry small change, ideally 100 rupees, for tipping porters, paying for local street snacks, and temple offerings.Spend at least two nights in each location, as transfers are often longer than you anticipate due to comfort stops, photo opportunities, and road and weather conditions.Ask questions – please don't be embarrassed. Generally, people love talking about themselves and stay curious.Good supportive shoes are essential, even in the cities, due to the uneven ground—think steps, uneven roads, and cobbles.Make time for downtime – have a few days between the cities to decompress, process, reflect, and relax.Bring a cushion from home if you are particular about where your head lands at night!

Weather patterns are shifting these days, with monsoons arriving later and temperatures rising, so timing matters more than it used to. I now look very carefully at the region and the season before advising clients – and I often suggest travelling a little earlier or later than people expect to get the best balance of weather and experience.