The quintessential desert town of Jaisalmer sits in the westernmost corner of Rajasthan and at its heart is Jaisalmer Fort, a gargantuan sandcastle that soars from the sandy plains below. Despite being fairly commercialised, most of the town still live within its ninety-nine bastions and ramparts that encircle its twisting lanes. Most of the inhabitants are Brahmins and Rajputs, some living in ancient havelis that were once the ornate homes of wealthy traders. At the centre of the fort lies the main chowk (square) and the Palace of Maharawal, open to the public as the Fort Palace Museum. The fort is also home to a number of temples, including the venerable Laxminath Temple of 1494, as well as a collection of interconnected Jain temples.  Our half-day tour explores the intricacies of this historic desert fort and aims to avoid the more commercial and touristy areas.