Real Travels in Japan with Mark Cummings

Earlier this year, after the success of his book Glorious Gloucestershire and an appearance at the Cheltenham Travel Festival, Mark came to us with one clear goal: to uncover the real, insider Japan.With the help of our Japan experts, Fenton and Emma, he set off on a tailor-made Japan holiday full of hidden temples, secret bars, friendly locals and those unforgettable waku waku (thrill-and-excitement) moments that only real travel can bring.Here’s what he discovered along the way (don't miss his brilliant videos along the way!)…

Waku waku is the Japanese way of describing the feeling of being thrilled and excited all at the same time. My first overwhelming experience of “Waku waku” was high up in the hills above Kyoto at the mysterious Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple knowing I had found a hidden gem away from the congested hordes of tourists gathered a couple of miles below. Fenton and Emma from Holiday Architects devised a cunning plan for me to discover ancient temples, cosy tea houses and quiet Zen gardens while spending a few hours slowly descending towards the cacophony of camera clicks and selfie sticks at the famous but frenetic Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. High up amongst the temple’s spooky statues, I enjoyed a lovely feeling of empowerment mixed with a sprinkling of anticipation and a guilty splash of smugness.Keep reading if you’d like to find out more about my hilltop adventure and other top tips that transformed my Japanese adventure. The unique guidance I received took me to mesmerising markets, secret bars, temple rooftops, stunning Zen gardens, and dreamy bohemian districts. If you love travel with a twist, enjoy avoiding the crowds and love to delve deep into the soul of a country then read on.

The famous Arashiyama Bamboo Forest is worth a visit but it can be hugely crowded so here’s a great tip for making the most of this area. We took a taxi higher up the Arishiyama hillside to the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple and spent a couple of dreamy hours exploring this peaceful Buddhist Temple before slowly walking down the quiet hillside path enjoying enchanting gems that not many tourists get to see.The Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple has hundreds of slightly haunting moss-covered stone statues each with a different face. They have been created by the students of the temple’s head priest Kocho Nishimura who also happened to be a sculptor. He encouraged his students to bring out the character within the stone and the results are fascinating. It’s a magical temple to start off your day. Slowly make your way down the foothills of Mt Ogura following the Hozu Katsura river enjoying the ancient preserved streets, temples, shrines and a real highlight – an alternative bamboo experience that not many people discover. The Adashino Nenbutsu-ji temple has its own idyllic bamboo grove that you might just have all to yourself. My final top tip is to visit the Okochi Sanso Garden hidden behind the busy bamboo forest at the bottom. If you love a Zen garden, you’ll be mesmerised by this.

If you don’t want to get up at five in the morning to avoid the crowds, try something a little more relaxing but even more magical. The Fushimi Inari shrine celebrates the Shinto god of rice, agriculture and prosperity and it is a spectacular place to spend a few hours. We climbed to the top of Mt Inari late afternoon so we could be back down to enjoy the main shrine building at dusk. It’s a fun climb through the myriad of orange Tori gates that weave around the mountain path with fox statues and small shrines along the route.There are cracking views across Kyoto, but don’t expect the same at the summit. It’s a bit of an anticlimax, however, you get a real sense of satisfaction having made it to the top. Once back down, we loved the quieter early evening crowds, the even more magical shimmering shrines and the twinkling Japanese lanterns guiding you through this sacred place.

I loved my time here in this ancient, mad, bustling corridor of delights with its famous yellow, red and green roof. It has over 100 shops/stalls and restaurants selling beautifully displayed seafood such as squid and sea snails, skewered meat, dried and candied fruit, exotic sweets, local herbs and spices, unusual tofu and locally made ceramics. It’s where the locals go but it does get busy with tourists by lunchtime so go early when the shops are opening up and throw yourself into the madness. I particularly enjoyed the skewered octopus, prawn tempura, spicy nuts and a cold beer in one of the tiny bars you must visit.

A short distance away from the crowded World Heritage Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) is a little oasis of calm and charm. We spent a very happy day exploring the area around the Nanzenji Temple with its impressive Sanmon entrance gate which we climbed to the top of. This is one of Japan’s most important Zen temples with spacious grounds, a fascinating history and beautiful rock gardens. However, the highlight for me was the garden connected to the Tenjuan Temple next door. I fell in love with this Zen paradise with its huge rock pond, lush verdant garden and teasing stepping stones. Luckily, the bamboo rails will save you sharing a dip with the massive Koi Carp. This dreamy hidden oasis tends not to be crowded so you really can spend as long as you want there. If you want to stretch your legs, nearby is the famous Philosopher’s Path, a waterside path dotted with art galleries and cafés. A short bus ride away is the lively Gion District.

Here’s why you must spend a few hours in the delightful and charming district of Yanaka Ginza. Half a day spent here will give you a peaceful break from the madness of the world’s biggest city and introduce you to the calm, relaxing spirit of old Tokyo. In my short visit I made several friends, ate delicious street food, bought authentic handmade gifts, drank excellent beer and whiled away a few hours people watching.The first person to befriend me was Kuni who runs the most incredible Tourist information office. It’s a simple unit nestled between flower shops and Craft Ale bars but boy does it pack a punch. Not only can you find out everything to do culturally in the area Kuni also organises classes on calligraphy, flower arranging, cooking and Kabuki make up. She was an infectious bundle of knowledge and waved to me every time I wandered past with the biggest smile you’ve ever seen and we now follow each on Instagram.I then met my three drinking buddies Tsugurou, Naoya, and Kenji. I was sipping a cold refreshing local beer outside a bar on the main street when these three locals engaged me in conversation for a good twenty minutes. They were delighted and intrigued to test their English on a westerner and I was equally pleased to try my pigeon Japanese in return. I learned a bit about the local area but more about their love of Liverpool FC, The Beatles, Queen and Billy Joel. My new pals then directed me to the famous Yanaka Cemetery where I spent a tranquil hour amongst the pristine paths and elaborately decorated tombs. Here can be found the grave of Tokugawa Yoshinobu, the last Tokugawa shogun of the Edo Period.If you love rustic charm, good value, friendly people and mixing with the locals, then I highly recommend getting the train to Nippori Station. Be prepared to make some new friends… and by the way, the reason I can remember all the names and spellings of my beer-quaffing mates is because we all also now follow each other on Instagram.

This exotic area with atmospheric alleyways and tiny bars gave us many memorable moments. Golden Gai is located just behind the lively district of Shinjuku, and if you dive in wholeheartedly, I promise you'll feel like a true traveller. It hasn’t changed much since it began as a black-market zone in the 1950s and still has an authentic atmosphere, hinting that something naughty, risqué, or even bawdy might happen. The Holiday Architects team challenged us to immerse ourselves by visiting several bars, meeting locals, and trying karaoke. You’ll need to watch the videos to see if we succeeded. All I can say is my “Waku waku” level soared.

Thanks to Fenton and Emma’s knowledge of Japan we experienced the country in a way that was hugely enriching and meaningful. Please take a look at the videos, they will take you to all the places I have described and introduce you to some of the friends I made along the way.I’ll leave you with one of my favorite quotes that sums up the ethos behind the help I received to squeeze every drop out of my visit to Japan. G.K. Chesterton “The traveller sees what he sees, the tourist sees what he has come to see.”