Lisa’s expert guide to the places and experiences worth knowing in Vietnam

Vietnam can sometimes be surprisingly tricky to… master, let's say. Like lots of the weird and wonderful places we visit, it can be overwhelming, simply because there is so much we want to see and experience while we are there. There is the frenetic energy of Hanoi, the lantern-lit streets of Hoi An, the limestone landscapes of Phong Nha and the waterways of the Mekong Delta. Ancient cities, war history, rice terraces, beaches, street food, mountains, and an almost endless supply of tiny restaurants you might otherwise walk straight past.And while the classic Vietnam itinerary has plenty to offer, Holiday Architects expert Lisa Dyboll thinks there are still ways you can enhance the experience.After travelling from north to south on her latest research trip, Lisa revisited familiar destinations, explored new corners, and trialled new and old experiences she now loves to recommend to her clients.Her biggest takeaway? Share your journey whenever you can. Whether it's your guide telling you the history of a building that is now a bakery or sitting with an elderly Vietnamese man as he recounts his life over a cup of tea. From walking through the rice fields of Pu Luong to gliding quietly on a boat through the illuminated caves, these are the places, experiences, and little details Lisa thinks are worth knowing when planning a holiday in Vietnam.

During my most recent trip to Vietnam, I travelled from Hanoi in the north to the Mekong Delta in the south, stopping in Mai Chau, Pu Luong, Phong Nha, Hue, Hoi An and Saigon along the way.It is a fairly classic north-to-south route, but I didn’t want to simply tick off the country's headline destinations again. I wanted to really deepen my knowledge of these places, as there are always new things to learn. At the same time, I wanted to get further off the beaten track and discover quirky experiences to recommend to clients looking for something a little different.It can be tempting to move on every day or two, particularly when there is so much to see (this is especially true on our research trips!). But I did find that some places really need a little breathing room to appreciate them properly.

My first impression of Hanoi on this trip was familiar: hot, noisy and a lot to take in.Scooters, crowds, markets, traffic and street life create an extraordinary sensory overload, particularly if you have just arrived in Vietnam.Now that I know what to expect, I find the city easier to navigate. I can still remember the first time I experienced the city; it gives you a thrill and an exciting rush, but it can also be a lot. My Hanoi tip: get out with a guide early in your stay.One of my favourite experiences was an evening walking tour through Hanoi's Old Quarter.Rather than just moving from one famous sight to another, the experience follows the city as it changes from working day to evening: through markets and local streets, towards Long Biên Bridge, then on to a local backstreet restaurant for dinner.I absolutely loved walking across the bridge at sunset. The city just comes alive; traffic streams out of Hanoi while everyday life carries on right below you on the Red River.The evening finishes by exploring more of the beautiful Old Quarter, including Train Street.This is exactly the sort of experience I like to share with clients who want to learn Hanoi.The more practical reason I like guided experiences here is that Hanoi can feel a little overwhelming when you first arrive. Having someone alongside you who can explain what you're seeing- the food, the buildings, the history, and the everyday life happening around you, makes you so appreciative of the whole city and is a great way to ease yourself into the magic.

If you are looking for a quieter side of northern Vietnam, Pu Luong is probably one of my favourites.I loved it as an alternative to Mai Chau. Both offer rural landscapes, rice fields, and opportunities to experience village life, but I found Pu Luong more remote and rural, with especially amazing scenery!The highlight in Pu Luong was walking through the rice paddies and villages. By the end of June, the terraces and fields were becoming a carpet of green, with rice being planted by hand. I find the process beautifully fascinating, and feel privileged to have seen these working agricultural areas.

If you’re looking for a shiny, manicured resort, this isn't it. The rooms here are simple and rustic, but you come for the setting. Standing on the hillside looking down at the endless green rice terraces and mountain peaks is worth every bit of it.I absolutely loved lunch here; it was easily some of the best Vietnamese food of the trip. Take a village walk further into the reserve, where the terrain is flatter, and you can see traditional villages, rice paddies, and water wheels, and meet people living and working in the area.Pu Luong works particularly well for travellers who want:

• rural landscapes and walking
• authentic local experiences
• a slower pace
• somewhere less developed than the classic Vietnam stops

I wouldn't necessarily combine Mai Chau and Pu Luong in the same itinerary. There is some overlap in the experiences, so you'd generally only need to choose one.

Phong Nha, from an activity perspective, is incredible. The area is less touristy than some of Vietnam's better-known destinations, with a slower, more remote feeling and plenty to keep active travellers occupied.The headline experiences are its extraordinary caves.

Personally, it's best to split these over two days rather than visit them together, as each is a major experience in its own right.Paradise Cave starts with a beautiful walk through the forest before you head down into these massive underground chambers. It’s huge inside, and you follow a raised wooden walkway right past these towering stalactites and stalagmites.At Phong Nha Cave, you take a traditional boat along the river right up to the cave. Once you’re inside, they switch off the engines, and you just glide quietly through this beautifully lit underground world.It's another lovely example of why having local guides involved makes the experience. They add context to what you are seeing, turning an impressive cave into a story about the region's geology, history, and discoveries.And there is more to Phong Nha than cavesThere are also the Vinh Moc Tunnels, an underground village located in the former Vietnamese Demilitarised Zone (DMZ), as a transfer experience between Phong Nha and Hue.The tunnels provide an unusually immersive insight into life during the Vietnam War; the journey through the former DMZ adds another layer of historical context.This is part of what makes Phong Nha so interesting: the scenery is spectacular, but it is also so rich in history.

Hue was one of my favourite stops, particularly for its history and its ancient Garden Houses.But one experience stands out above all the rest.

I visited the Garden House of Mr Vinh, who had painstakingly restored his family's home after it was almost destroyed during the war.Mr Vinh impressively carved much of the woodwork himself.Rather than simply touring the house, I was invited to sit down, drink tea and hear stories about his family and the history of the property. It was the most fulfilling and authentic experience. I will never forget sitting there with him.This is the kind of experience that is hard to recreate by simply booking attractions online. The value is in the person you meet and the stories that they tell.For me, that is the best part of going to Vietnam. The people you meet leave you feeling so full.

Hoi An is beautiful, of course, and I loved wandering the old town. But my favourite part was learning how to make a bánh mì.The experience started with Na, who met us at the hotel. We then headed to the market to buy fresh ingredients, then returned to her home to cook.The food was out of this world! But I really loved the interaction and meeting Na.Na treated us like friends, not guests in a formal cooking class. I also came away with a recipe book, which was such a lovely and useful keepsake! And not to mention a much better understanding of the food and the person behind it.And I know I keep saying it! But a good guide really matters. The guide can completely change the experience.A guide doesn't just point out a building or tell you when something was built. They can explain the world you are walking through.They can tell you why an old bakery matters. Explain a local tradition. Introduce you to someone. Tell you what you're eating and why.I will say it time and time again: if you're travelling without a guide, you're not necessarily getting the same experience.

The final major part of this journey was the Mekong Delta. I stayed at the Coco Riverside in Vinh Long province, a small activity-led property on a quiet canal away from the main Mekong River.It’s more like a homestay than a conventional lodge, and that's part of its charm.The owner, Mr Hui, is exceptionally knowledgeable; the rooms are so comfortable, and the location is surrounded by the waterways and rural landscapes that make the Mekong so special.In fact, I had my best night's sleep of the whole trip here.For anyone who loves rivers and waterways, this is a particularly special place.It's also another example of why two nights can make such a difference. Rather than racing through the Mekong Delta on a day trip, staying in the region lets you experience it a little bit more.