The drive to Tafraoute, about 100 miles south of Taroudant, is one of the most impressive and dramatic, passing through rounded, elephantine granite outcrops dotted with hardy bushes and scrub. The town of Tafraoute is sleepy and relatively untouched by tourism; it’s a centre for the local Berber economy, providing work and a marketplace for local villagers, and relatively wealthy thanks to remittances from family members working in the big cities. The surrounding landscape is the real attraction though, the natural formations (like Napoleon’s Hat) vying with the blue Painted Rocks of Belgian artist Jean Verame.