The mellah (Jewish quarter), long empty of people and for a while quite unfashionable, is undergoing something of a renaissance, led by riads like Riad Dar One. Accessed via its own private street, this is an elegant, sophisticated gem of a hotel. Three stories of earthy tadlakht (smooth plaster) walls, delicate iron balcony rails and stylish, traditional window arches rise above the central courtyard and the rooms employ the same mix of dark and light tones for a contemporary, stylish feel amidst very traditional architecture. This is one of our favourite Marrakesh riads.