The instant you walk into Ryad Watier you know your host, voluble Frenchman Jean-Gabriel, loves his art. All the walls are covered with a variety of artwork, some from his family, some from local artists he supports. The riad is in the heart of the medina, and used to be a school. Traditional architectural features survive, like the decorative arch over the doorway, and the rooms are furnished in colourful, local style and to a high standard. You’ll learn much about ancient and modern Essaouira from your hosts, and at the end of a day you can settle into the cosy, extensive library for an evening’s reading.