Tucked away down a small alley that runs beneath the buildings adjacent to Essaouira’s ramparts, Dar Loulema is a simple, attractive, traditional riad. A small central courtyard looks up through the three floors to the sky above. White-washed, with splashes of blue, the riad has a real seaside feel, strengthened when you head up to the terrace for views over the Atlantic. The rooms are decorated in traditional, colourful Moroccan style and are very unpretentious. The welcome is warm, and it’s hard to think of a better place to stay for this price anywhere in Essaouira.